Just a quick mention of other kinds of knife locks.
Frame lock. A frame lock is just like a liner lock, except instead of the piece of metal being inside the handles, it is part of the handles. The handles are made of titanium, usually, replacing the need for both handles and liners. Chris Reeve knives is known for popularizing this lock with the excellent Sebenza.
AXIS lock. With an AXIS lock, a spring loaded bar going across and behind the blade is able to drop into a notch when the blade is fully opened. It is then pulled back to disengage and close the blade. This is a very strong lock, and also lefty friendly.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Sunday, August 5, 2007
The perfect lefty folding knife
The perfect knife for a lefty will come in many forms. Here are a list of features every lefty folding knife should have:
Clip: should be on the left side of the knife (looking at the knife tip up and edge away from you). It can be mounted for either tip up or down to your preference.
Opening: The opening device should be accessible with the left hand. A hole in the blade, a disk on the spine, or a stud sticking out of the blade on the right (and maybe left also) side are all fine here. A Kick, or blade spur that sticks out the spine when the blade is closed, is also a useful way to open a knife. To do it, you flick the kick into the handle with your index finger, pushing the blade open. Sometimes this alone is enough to fully engage the blade. Other times you may need to give your wrist a flick to help the blade open fully.
Lock: The perfect knife can close one handed. This takes lock-backs off the list. Liner-locks and Frame-locks are available on some knives for lefties. A correct lefty liner-lock will be on the same side of the blade as the clip. This allows you to push it out of the way with your thumb, not pull it. Other locks include Benchmade's AXIS lock, a through the handle bar that is spring loaded and engages a cutout in the blade when fully opened. You pull it back out of the cutout to disengage. This can be done with a finger or thumb, or by griping the bar with both thumb and middle finger and pulling back and using the index finger to close the blade (without needing to adjust your grip at all).
That's it: clip, opener, lock. These are all that are needed for me to be happy. However, the perfect lefty folding knife also has:
Blade Edge: This is barely a requirement, as I've never handled a knife where I wouldn't keep it if the blade edge grind wasn't good. If your knife has a chisel grind, that is sharpened on one side and flat on the other, the flat side should be the clip (left) side of the knife. Most blades are sharpened evenly on both sides of the edge, making this a moot point.
There are no examples of a current production knife with a liner-lock that's lefty. In the past, Benchmade, Emerson, REKAT, Spyderco, CRKT, and Kershaw all made lefty liner-locks.
So, say you want an inexpensive lefty knife, what are your choices? Your best choice is to go with an AXIS lock, or AXIS-like lock. Benchmade has the AXIS Griptilian or Mini-Griptilian, SOG has the Arc-lock Mini X-Ray Vision, Spyderco has the Ball-Lock D'Allara Drop Point or even the Cold Steel Ultra Lock Recon-1 (the only knife on this list I don't own, and I own many knives).
Your other choices fails the Lock category, but you can adapt:
One choice would be to go with a lock-back knife. You sacrifice the one hand closing, but many companies make knives that fit this category, including Spyderco (Native, Endura, Delica), Ka-Bar (Dozier folder), Benchmade (Pika), and many others. Just make sure the clip can be relocated to the left side, and that the opening device can be used with the left thumb.
Your other choice would be to go with a righty liner-lock. Here you just have to pull the lock with your thumb; some find this hard. Again, the clip and opener need to be setup for the lefty. Columbia River Knife and Tool are well known here with their M-16 and all it's versions, but many other companies make liner locks too.
More expensive? Higher end production knives from the companies listed above, like the Benchmade 940. Also Chris Reeve Knives makes a lefty version of their Sebenza frame-lock, a solid workhorse knife. Strider just did a run of lefty SnG.
Custom knives? Many knife makers will create a lefty liner-lock for you. You're see examples of these in this blog. Some are rarer than others, all are expensive.
Clip: should be on the left side of the knife (looking at the knife tip up and edge away from you). It can be mounted for either tip up or down to your preference.
Opening: The opening device should be accessible with the left hand. A hole in the blade, a disk on the spine, or a stud sticking out of the blade on the right (and maybe left also) side are all fine here. A Kick, or blade spur that sticks out the spine when the blade is closed, is also a useful way to open a knife. To do it, you flick the kick into the handle with your index finger, pushing the blade open. Sometimes this alone is enough to fully engage the blade. Other times you may need to give your wrist a flick to help the blade open fully.
Lock: The perfect knife can close one handed. This takes lock-backs off the list. Liner-locks and Frame-locks are available on some knives for lefties. A correct lefty liner-lock will be on the same side of the blade as the clip. This allows you to push it out of the way with your thumb, not pull it. Other locks include Benchmade's AXIS lock, a through the handle bar that is spring loaded and engages a cutout in the blade when fully opened. You pull it back out of the cutout to disengage. This can be done with a finger or thumb, or by griping the bar with both thumb and middle finger and pulling back and using the index finger to close the blade (without needing to adjust your grip at all).
That's it: clip, opener, lock. These are all that are needed for me to be happy. However, the perfect lefty folding knife also has:
Blade Edge: This is barely a requirement, as I've never handled a knife where I wouldn't keep it if the blade edge grind wasn't good. If your knife has a chisel grind, that is sharpened on one side and flat on the other, the flat side should be the clip (left) side of the knife. Most blades are sharpened evenly on both sides of the edge, making this a moot point.
There are no examples of a current production knife with a liner-lock that's lefty. In the past, Benchmade, Emerson, REKAT, Spyderco, CRKT, and Kershaw all made lefty liner-locks.
So, say you want an inexpensive lefty knife, what are your choices? Your best choice is to go with an AXIS lock, or AXIS-like lock. Benchmade has the AXIS Griptilian or Mini-Griptilian, SOG has the Arc-lock Mini X-Ray Vision, Spyderco has the Ball-Lock D'Allara Drop Point or even the Cold Steel Ultra Lock Recon-1 (the only knife on this list I don't own, and I own many knives).
Your other choices fails the Lock category, but you can adapt:
One choice would be to go with a lock-back knife. You sacrifice the one hand closing, but many companies make knives that fit this category, including Spyderco (Native, Endura, Delica), Ka-Bar (Dozier folder), Benchmade (Pika), and many others. Just make sure the clip can be relocated to the left side, and that the opening device can be used with the left thumb.
Your other choice would be to go with a righty liner-lock. Here you just have to pull the lock with your thumb; some find this hard. Again, the clip and opener need to be setup for the lefty. Columbia River Knife and Tool are well known here with their M-16 and all it's versions, but many other companies make liner locks too.
More expensive? Higher end production knives from the companies listed above, like the Benchmade 940. Also Chris Reeve Knives makes a lefty version of their Sebenza frame-lock, a solid workhorse knife. Strider just did a run of lefty SnG.
Custom knives? Many knife makers will create a lefty liner-lock for you. You're see examples of these in this blog. Some are rarer than others, all are expensive.
Saturday, August 4, 2007
Introduction II
I should have said this earlier, but the knives I'm discussing in this blog are quality items. Some are production knives, some are hand made custom knives. Quality costs money. The least expensive knife I consider quality costs over $25. You won't find these knives in gas stations or 7-11, and you might find some of the least expensive at big box or hardware stores. For the majority, you'll need to hit an outdoor store or a dedicated knife store.
I hope to be able to educate you into spending more for a knife; showing you that the features, materials and construction make them worth more. Expect these knives to last a long time. Some may become collectible.
These first dozen posts are a single topic, divided into parts. After this, assume the posts will be random in nature, showing things (knives) I find interesting or good.
I hope to be able to educate you into spending more for a knife; showing you that the features, materials and construction make them worth more. Expect these knives to last a long time. Some may become collectible.
These first dozen posts are a single topic, divided into parts. After this, assume the posts will be random in nature, showing things (knives) I find interesting or good.
The lefty conundrum
Most of the population is right handed. It's natural for designers to make items for themselves, and since odds are they themselves are right handed, that's what they do. However, some design decisions aren't optimal for lefties. So, a smart buyer can look for designs that are lefty friendly, or at least are not a disadvantage for the left handed user. Finding these knives can be a challenge.
The Return
Once the knife is closed, return it to where you had it stored before: pocket, belt, sheath, wherever. This can usually be done one handed.
The Close
I use generalizations in this and other posts. A lot. There are exceptions, which is going to be the focus of this blog after all the introductions and explanations are done.
The lock and the Close are related, as the Close is unlocking the blade and folding it closed. This isn't a reverse of the Open as you need to do different things to close the knife.
With a liner-lock you need to disengage the lock with your thumb while you use your index finger to push on the spine of the blade rotating it away from the fully open position. Then you remove your thumb from the lock, as it's in the way of the closing blade. After that you use your finger or thumb to finish closing the blade.
The lock-back isn't really capable of being closed one handed without some outside assistance. While depressing the bar with your thumb or finger while gripping the handle, you push the blade's spine against something to start it rotating closed. Then, you shift your grip and finish closing the blade with your fingers and hand out of the way of the blade.
The lock and the Close are related, as the Close is unlocking the blade and folding it closed. This isn't a reverse of the Open as you need to do different things to close the knife.
With a liner-lock you need to disengage the lock with your thumb while you use your index finger to push on the spine of the blade rotating it away from the fully open position. Then you remove your thumb from the lock, as it's in the way of the closing blade. After that you use your finger or thumb to finish closing the blade.
The lock-back isn't really capable of being closed one handed without some outside assistance. While depressing the bar with your thumb or finger while gripping the handle, you push the blade's spine against something to start it rotating closed. Then, you shift your grip and finish closing the blade with your fingers and hand out of the way of the blade.
the lock
I use generalizations in this and other posts. A lot. There are exceptions, which is going to be the focus of this blog after all the introductions and explanations are done.
The lock isn't a step into itself. In fact, it's not a step at all, it's a feature. However, I felt it necessary to describe it here as it's an integral part of the closing step. Once a blade is opened, something needs to keep it open.
With classic knives, like Case and Swiss Army, it's a detent and friction. Nothing needs to be done before closing; you just push the spine of the blade to start it closing.
Modern folding knives have a safety, a positive lock, to keep the blade open to prevent it from closing (on your hand while holding the handle). The two most common are the liner-lock and the lock-back.
The liner-lock, or it's variant the frame-lock has a pre-bent piece of metal that moves sideways into a space inside the handle, behind the blade, created when the blade is fully open. It needs to be pushed out of the way to close the blade. Think of the back of the blade being D shaped. When fully opened, the flat part of the D mates with the flat shaped end of the liner-lock. When the blade isn't fully open, the round part of the D prevents this mating, because the blade rotates around the pivot.
The lock-back has a spring loaded bar of metal that snaps down into a space created when the blade is fully opened. This bar rides along the top, or spine, of the handle. To disengage, you push the far end of the bar down, lifting the other end out of the space (like a seesaw), unlocking the blade.
The lock isn't a step into itself. In fact, it's not a step at all, it's a feature. However, I felt it necessary to describe it here as it's an integral part of the closing step. Once a blade is opened, something needs to keep it open.
With classic knives, like Case and Swiss Army, it's a detent and friction. Nothing needs to be done before closing; you just push the spine of the blade to start it closing.
Modern folding knives have a safety, a positive lock, to keep the blade open to prevent it from closing (on your hand while holding the handle). The two most common are the liner-lock and the lock-back.
The liner-lock, or it's variant the frame-lock has a pre-bent piece of metal that moves sideways into a space inside the handle, behind the blade, created when the blade is fully open. It needs to be pushed out of the way to close the blade. Think of the back of the blade being D shaped. When fully opened, the flat part of the D mates with the flat shaped end of the liner-lock. When the blade isn't fully open, the round part of the D prevents this mating, because the blade rotates around the pivot.
The lock-back has a spring loaded bar of metal that snaps down into a space created when the blade is fully opened. This bar rides along the top, or spine, of the handle. To disengage, you push the far end of the bar down, lifting the other end out of the space (like a seesaw), unlocking the blade.
Friday, August 3, 2007
The Use
I use generalizations in this and other posts. A lot. There are exceptions, which is going to be the focus of this blog after all the introductions and explanations are done.
Surprisingly, there are a lot of choices in using a knife, from the grip to the stroke used to cut. The shape of the blade, and how the blade was sharpened also are factors into how you use it. There are serrated blades, partially serrated, and non serrated blades. Serrations are teeth on the blade, like a saw has. They allow more surface area in a given length of blade, and can help cut with their in-out profile. They are considered harder to sharpen, a favorite pastime of knife collectors and owners.
But, basically, it's a knife- cut something with it.
Surprisingly, there are a lot of choices in using a knife, from the grip to the stroke used to cut. The shape of the blade, and how the blade was sharpened also are factors into how you use it. There are serrated blades, partially serrated, and non serrated blades. Serrations are teeth on the blade, like a saw has. They allow more surface area in a given length of blade, and can help cut with their in-out profile. They are considered harder to sharpen, a favorite pastime of knife collectors and owners.
But, basically, it's a knife- cut something with it.
The Open
I use generalizations in this and other posts. A lot. There are exceptions, which is going to be the focus of this blog after all the introductions and explanations are done.
Once the knife is in your hand, you need to be able to use the blade. If it's a fixed blade go directly to USE. For folders, there are many ways to get the blade open. Commonly, there is something on the blade to make it easy to open. In Case and Swiss Army knives as well as most folders until the 80s, this was the nick, a small groove your fingernail snagged to get the blade started out the handle. This was so hard, companies made tools to do this.
Then came the 80s.
Spyderco cut a round hole in the blade, and you place the pad of your thumb into it, and rotate the blade open with the rest of your hand gripping the handle. The one hand opener. Spyderco patented it, so other companies had to invent different methods, like the thumb stud, the thumb disc (mounted on the spine of the blade), or holes of different shapes like oval or square. There's even a product today that clamps to a nick blade making it a one hand opener.
Your knife is now ready to USE.
Once the knife is in your hand, you need to be able to use the blade. If it's a fixed blade go directly to USE. For folders, there are many ways to get the blade open. Commonly, there is something on the blade to make it easy to open. In Case and Swiss Army knives as well as most folders until the 80s, this was the nick, a small groove your fingernail snagged to get the blade started out the handle. This was so hard, companies made tools to do this.
Then came the 80s.
Spyderco cut a round hole in the blade, and you place the pad of your thumb into it, and rotate the blade open with the rest of your hand gripping the handle. The one hand opener. Spyderco patented it, so other companies had to invent different methods, like the thumb stud, the thumb disc (mounted on the spine of the blade), or holes of different shapes like oval or square. There's even a product today that clamps to a nick blade making it a one hand opener.
Your knife is now ready to USE.
The Draw
I use generalizations in this and other posts. A lot. There are exceptions, which is going to be the focus of this blog after all the introductions and explanations are done.
Knives are kept safe on the body until needed, from a fixed blade in a sheath, or a closed folder. They are attached or stored on the strong side of the body: attached to a belt or in a pocket. The modern folder has a clip on the handle, and you clip the knife into your front pocket next to the seam, that is the back of the pocket (over your hip). The knife is in the pocket, with the clip on the outside. A folder with no clip, like a Case or Swiss Army knife, will sit in the bottom of your pocket.
Clips may store the knife either tip up or tip down. Tip up is dominant, as the blade is then snug against the back of pocket and unable to open. Tip down is rare, but one advantage of this variant is that the blade is kept closed by gravity, as the pivot is at the top of the knife.
Most knives have clips for right handed people: on the right side of the handle (looking at the knife tip up and edge away from you) either for tip up or down. It should keep the knife from moving, shifting or falling out, and still allow easy removal when needed.
The draw varies based on where the knife is and how it's attached. If it's clipless you search around in your pocket, get a grip and pull it out. Then you need to figure out how the knife is oriented in your hand, and then shift it around so it can be opened.
The clip knife, tip up is grasped with the thumb inside the pocket and a finger or two on the outside grasping the clip or exposed handle. It's then drawn out and shifted up or down so the thumb can open it. A tip down knife is drawn the same way, but then pivoted so the spine of the knife is against your palm and your thumb ready to open the blade.
Fixed blade sheaths will have a loop to attach it to something, usually your belt. Sheaths also usually have a strap over or around the knife to keep it from falling out, which needs to be disengaged: generally unsnapped. Then you pull the blade out. Most sheaths are right handed, storing the knife over your hip on the right side edge facing rearward.
The draw here is simple: undo any safety, grip the handle and pull the blade out. The hammer grip is used as it is the same as using a knife to cut food or a saw to, well, saw.
Knives are kept safe on the body until needed, from a fixed blade in a sheath, or a closed folder. They are attached or stored on the strong side of the body: attached to a belt or in a pocket. The modern folder has a clip on the handle, and you clip the knife into your front pocket next to the seam, that is the back of the pocket (over your hip). The knife is in the pocket, with the clip on the outside. A folder with no clip, like a Case or Swiss Army knife, will sit in the bottom of your pocket.
Clips may store the knife either tip up or tip down. Tip up is dominant, as the blade is then snug against the back of pocket and unable to open. Tip down is rare, but one advantage of this variant is that the blade is kept closed by gravity, as the pivot is at the top of the knife.
Most knives have clips for right handed people: on the right side of the handle (looking at the knife tip up and edge away from you) either for tip up or down. It should keep the knife from moving, shifting or falling out, and still allow easy removal when needed.
The draw varies based on where the knife is and how it's attached. If it's clipless you search around in your pocket, get a grip and pull it out. Then you need to figure out how the knife is oriented in your hand, and then shift it around so it can be opened.
The clip knife, tip up is grasped with the thumb inside the pocket and a finger or two on the outside grasping the clip or exposed handle. It's then drawn out and shifted up or down so the thumb can open it. A tip down knife is drawn the same way, but then pivoted so the spine of the knife is against your palm and your thumb ready to open the blade.
Fixed blade sheaths will have a loop to attach it to something, usually your belt. Sheaths also usually have a strap over or around the knife to keep it from falling out, which needs to be disengaged: generally unsnapped. Then you pull the blade out. Most sheaths are right handed, storing the knife over your hip on the right side edge facing rearward.
The draw here is simple: undo any safety, grip the handle and pull the blade out. The hammer grip is used as it is the same as using a knife to cut food or a saw to, well, saw.
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